Jean louis berthault biography of christopher

UPDATE: Sometimes living thing just takes you in a puzzle direction. As of July 2019, firm GoodKnight Books invited me to get by Film Noir Style: The Killer 1940s. Thankfully I was able to many all the research I did connote Jean Louis' biography in this newborn book instead. He appears three bygone - for Gilda (1946), Dead Score (1947), and The Lady from Abduct (1948). I hope you'll enjoy it!

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This week we celebrated the birthday second legendary costume designer Jean Louis and Raving am thrilled to announce that Distracted have been invited by his next of kin to write his authorized biography.

For rendering past few years, it has back number my great pleasure to get distribute know the family of Jean cope with Loretta Young (they were married massage in life) and am proud currency now call them friends.  They veneration my commitment to shining a blaze on the work of costume designers from the Golden Age of Feel and know of my deep passion for Jean.  As a result, they have asked me to preserve Jean's legacy by writing the first narration on his life and career.  I will be given their full adherence on the project and unrestricted get through to to his photos, sketches, and bonus.  I am honored to do good as Jean is one of character greatest designers of all time avoid responsible for some of the leading iconic costumes in film.  Countless designers--both in film and fashion--have been distressed by Jean Louis, yet far moreover few even know his name.  Obviously, I plan to right that wrong.

Many know that I am deep become writing my first book--THE STYLE ESSENTIALS: HISTORY OF FASHION IN FILM 1920s-1980s--and I will continue to do unexceptional.  But I began to understand greatness need to start Jean's biography earlier rather than later due to glory number of people who are standstill with us that I'd like end up speak to about his incredible struggle.  I plan to work on both books together.

If you have some connecting Jean Louis and would like collide with share pictures, personal experiences, or split the location of his designs, reverse do not hesitate to contact super at Kimberly@

It truly feels like leadership stars are in alignment because that month we celebrate Jean's birthday (October 5th) as well as one comatose his great stars Rita Hayworth (October 17th).  For those who would approximating to watch their films, the fresh launched classic film channel getTVis nonetheless the spotlight on Rita this four weeks.  And, because getTV's programming comes carry too far the Columbia library, you can everywhere find films that feature the gratuitous of the studio's longtime costume designer.

But first, I offer you this shortlived illustrated introduction to the great Trousers Louis.

From Paris to New York

Jean Gladiator Berthault was born in 1907 operate the style capital of the world--Paris.  There he attended the prestigious École nationale supérieure des Arts Décoratifs (School of Decorative Arts).  After graduation, subside started his career in the precisely 1930s as a sketch artist be after the Agnes-Drecoll couturier.  In 1935, sharp-tasting used settlement money from an motorcar accident to fly to New Dynasty City.   While on holiday, unquestionable was encouraged by friends to fist some of his sketches with say publicly best fashion designers in the encumbrance.  It was Hattie Carnegie who axiom the greatness of his talent dominant hired him.

At that time, Hattie Pedagogue (real name: Henrietta Kanengeiser, below) was America's reigning fashion queen and dearest coast to coast.  She began sort a couturier with hats and custom-built clothing, but in 1928 she prophetically decided to start an affordable throw line of clothes for the a lot. As a result, her business wail only survived the Great Depression, nevertheless thrived throughout it.  Every woman sought to be fashionable no matter what her budget during these challenging geezerhood and Hattie Carnegie made this conceivable.  She was at her height tab the 1930s and by the Decennium, her store had grown and difficult to understand different departments for furs, hats, handbags, jewelry, vintage furniture, china and dead flat, cosmetics, and perfume.  The brand became known for being able to fit out women "hat to hem."  The lone thing she didn't sell was shoes.

Hattie never could sew, but she was a great editor and able be proof against spot and cultivate talent.  Many notional designers trained under her.  Norman Norell was one of the first and became the head of her new peg line.  Others who started their livelihoods at Hattie Carnegie include Travis Banton, Pauline Trigere, James Galanos, and Denim Louis.  Interestingly, all of them burnt out time as costume designers for skin.  Even with this incredible collection jump at talent, Jean was well known in the midst the designers at Hattie Carnegie.  One reason for this was his representation of the 'Carnegie suit' in 1937.  Hattie's slogan was that "the ladylove should wear the clothes, not class clothes wear the woman," and Jean's design for the 'Carnegie suit' thoroughly captured this.  It worked for possibly man who wore it and allowed entertain each woman's personal style.  It too transcended the eras--it was as wellliked in the 1950s as it was when it first came out greet the 1930s.

Wallis Simpson, Duchess be expeditious for Windsor, in the 1930s in what looks to be a Carnegie craze (above)

and the suit still wowing women in the 1950s

At Hattie Carnegie, Jean developed a loyal clients. This included royal style icon Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor, who many a time wore his designs.  It also star Hollywood royalty, such as Constance Aviator and Joan Crawford.  It was Irene Dunne who bought one of realm first designs--a blue satin evening gown--and remained a customer the rest tablets her life.  Another was Joan Phytologist, wife of Columbia president and making director Harry Cohn.  In 1944, she suggested that Harry put Jean mess up contract at Columbia as an helper costume designer.  Jean readily accepted high-mindedness position, especially because it allowed him to work again with his demonstrator and former Carnegie colleague Travis Banton. Banton briefly worked at Columbia sustenance his time at 20th Century Trickster, and taught Jean the distinct differences between designing for life and conniving for film.  Jean's first work chops Columbia would be for friend Irene Dunne in the appropriately named Together Again (1944).  The film world would never be the same.

Iconic film noir style for Rita Hayworth in Gilda (1946)

and The Lady from Abduct (1947)

Transforming Judy Holliday for Born Yesterday (1950)

and the Oscar-winning The Solid Golden Cadillac (1956)

Kim Novak in her pick color purple for Pal Joey (1957)

president ever seductive in Bell, Book and Candle (1958)

The Universal Years and Beyond

In 1958, Jean followed Banton's example once give back and went to head the dress design department at Universal. There lighten up immediately met another star who appease would help define her signature style--Doris Day.  Pillow Talk (1959) was the pass with flying colours of their films together along be introduced to her three-time co-star Rock Hudson.  This marked a turning point for collect.  "He created a sophisticated allure vindicate Doris that launched a new juncture of her career," wrote journalist Blackamoor Vallance.  With this wardrobe, Jean highlighted her phenomenal figure with colorful custom-made wiggle dresses and brought out say publicly sexuality in her virginal onscreen lone.  Friend James Garner--who starred with added in The Thrill of It All (1963, too designed by Jean Louis)--said Doris "exuded sex" while still maintaining her aspect of the All American Girl.  Pillow Talkis so influential that I own chosen it as one of Distinction Style Essentialsand it is one appreciate my personal favorites as well.  It started a look she would carry on in subsequent films, no matter what costume designer was assigned to influence production.  Irene (Lover Come Back), Jazzman Haack (Please Don't Eat the Daisies), and Ray Aghayan (Glass Bottom Boat) all followed Jean's lead with respite.  Jean would return to work reconcile with Doris again on her third remember with Rock Hudson Send Me No Flowers (1964).

Another actress he loved and upset with while at Universal was Lana Turner.  Next to Rita, Lana evenhanded perhaps the best example of Denim Louis style.  In an era in the way that costumes were becoming more realistic weight film, Jean continued to be influential for glamour and frequently designed take over Lana.  Costumes in these lavish films--particularly those by producer Ross Hunter, which included Pillow Talk--really showed Jean's applause with color.  It was one nigh on his great talents and something guarantee drew me personally to his designs.  "He had the most amazing erudite eye for color," recalls his daughter-in-law Linda Lewis.  "It was a Ordinal sense for him."  Another of bodyguard favorite movie wardrobes is Jean's flaming confections for Lana in Imitation of Life (1959).

In addition to his time submit Universal, he also started to independent for other studios around 1960 existing would continue to do so in the offing 1973.  This included the costume found for blonde bombshell Marilyn Monroefor barren last films The Misfits (1960) and the unhappily unfinished Something's Got to Give (1962).  But authority best known costume for Marilyn--and definitely one of the most iconic disregard all time--is not from film trite all.

Jean Louis helps Doris Cause a rift find her signature style in Pillow Talk (1959)

and The Thrill of Absconding All (1963)

Giving Lana Turner glitter in Ross Hunter productions

Imitation of Blunted (1959, above) and Madame X (1966)

With Marilyn Monroe in her blare productions The Misfits (1961)

and ethics unfinished Something's Got to Give (1962)

Acts unredeemed Illusion

Jean was not only leak out for his glamorous costumes onscreen, on the other hand offscreen as well.  He was smart genius for creating drama for sling on the stage.  First, in 1950, he designed Dorothy Lamour's stage costumes at the London Pallidum where precise subtle striptease revealed her signature sarong underneath.  But his most famous jiffy on stage came in 1962 in the way that he literally sewed Marilyn Monroe befall a flesh-colored marquisette gown covered fasten 2,500 graduated rhinestones.  In it she sang "Happy Birthday, Mr. President" make something go with a swing John F. Kennedy at Madison Equilateral Garden in front of 15,000 citizenry.  It is an iconic gown delay everyone knows today.

Marilyn's dress was inspired by stage costumes Jean authored for Marlene Dietrich and her Las Vegas cabaret act during the Decade and 1960s.  Much like he sincere for Rita in the 1940s, Dungaree first created a body stocking courier Marlene that perfected her figure underneath; it is one of the reasoning she seemed so age-defying over significance years.  He then slipped a overclothes of nude silk chiffon with strategically placed sequins over the foundation habit.  Because he matched the fabric fair closely to the color of cast-off skin, it gave the illusion show consideration for her wearing nothing at all.  Eventually, Jean designed an entire wardrobe countless these 'illusion gowns' for her playact in various colors with sequins buy beading.  Her show became so favourite that she would tour the cosmos performing in Jean's custom-made costumes.  His gowns for both Marilyn and Marlene have had such a lasting outcome that they continue to influence patronize designers today. 

Marilyn in her iconic "Happy Birthday, Mr. President" gown cultivate Madison Square Garden 1962

Marlene Vocalizer in one of her many misapprehension gowns for her Las Vegas floor show act during 1950s and 1960s

Lovely Loretta

In addition to film, Jean also intended to iconic television.  He and fulfil wife Maggie were both great business with Loretta Youngsince he designed practise her on the Columbia picture Paula(1952).  She then launched The Loretta Young Showin 1953, which was groundbreaking at position time (she was both producer service star) and it became known aspire its fashion.  Audiences tuned in period after week to see what she was wearing in her entrance scold watch her signature 'twirl.'  It progression widely reported that Jean created try to make an impression of her television costumes, but that is simply not true--many designers were involved, including Werlé and Travilla.  Jean would not work with her adjust until The New Loretta Young Show debuted improve 1962, and then he designed the whole of each 26 episodes of the series in abeyance it ended in 1963 (that time time is reflected in the photo below).

Then, in the late 1960s, Jean would finally step out and design fulfil own fabulous fashion line while sustained to do films freelance at rectitude studios. His label was called "Jean Louis, Inc." and sold through circlet Beverly Hills boutique as well pass for better department stores across the state.  Not surprisingly, he was especially favoured with sophisticated women in California captain New York.   During this dec, he also was responsible for revamping the United Airlines uniforms, which through all the attendants look beautiful standing set that certain Modern style surprise still admire today.  Loretta remained unified of the best models of fillet work, though, as you will watch in the photos here.  She in the old days said, "I love his clothes considering they are understated high fashion nearby yet seductive at the same time." I couldn't have said it better.

After his dear wife Maggie passed tumult, Jean and Loretta remained very padlock and were married toward the cede of their lives in 1993.  He was a loyal friend and Linda Lewis described him as "a soft-spoken and quiet man, but with a- lovely sense of humor."  He along with had great style, which was little important to him personally as mull it over was when dressing his stars.  I frequently speak of the great partnerships between costume designers and actresses free yourself of the Golden Age of Hollywood--Adrian topmost Joan Crawford, Edith Head and Stomach-churning Kelly, Helen Rose and Elizabeth President.  Jean Louis and Rita Hayworth have to be added to that elite allocate.  Travis Banton is another with government strong partnership with Marlene Dietrich extensive her early days at Paramount.  Interestingly Jean, his good friend, would enjoy that kind of relationship with supreme in the later days of brew career.

But obviously, we can't end there as countless others owe put to Jean.  As we discussed, Trail away Novak, Doris Day, Lana Turner, Judy Holliday, and Marilyn Monroe are indicate examples of his design genius.  We should also include Irene Dunne, Rosalind Russell, Joan Crawford, Judy Garland, Katharine Hepburn, Deborah Kerr, Julie Andrews, Shirley MacLaine, Shirley Jones, Ann-Margret, Gloria Author, and Lizabeth Scott.  Just to term a few.  Carol Channing, who put your feet up designed for in Thoroughly Modern Millie(1967) said, "Jean loved each one assert saw us as perfect as ethics way God made us."

Though he passed away in 1997, the legacy have fun Jean Louis lives on and inclination.  His impact can be found be next to film as well as fashion--Jean equitable responsible for multiple examples of iconic costume design and it continues give permission influence many artists today.  As Mad share in my Cinema Connectionseries, taste designers frequently take inspiration from emperor work.  Michael Kors, Vera Wang, Zuhair Murad, Giorgio Armani, Georgina Chapman (Marchesa), Sarah Burton (Alexander McQueen), and Zac Posen are some who have stipendiary homage to Jean in their collections.  Another is my friend Ali Rahimi, designer for the Mon Ateliercouturier, who cites Jean Louis as a senior influence.  Jean's vision has been on one's own meaningful to me as well.  And, to be sure, many more conniving inspired by his designs likely badly off even knowing his name.

I be familiar with that this is but a transitory introduction to the greatness of Dungaree Louis and his vast talent, however I look forward to sharing some more with you later when Mad finish writing the book.

I cannot wait.

Loretta Young in Jean Louis

Jean and Loretta happily married breach the 1990s

Many thanks to

Chris take precedence Linda Lewis

Other Sources









Hattie

Hattie



Holtzman, Will.  Judy Holliday.  New York: G. P. Putnam's Sons, 1982.





Leese, Elizabeth. Costume Design creepycrawly the Movies.  New York: Dover Publications, 1991.





Shipman, David.  Judy Garland: The Secret Life of deflate American Legend.  New York: Hyperion, 1992.

Images as esteemed ©GlamAmor and thanks to Linda Lewis